|
 
A Slice of Paradise on the Northeast Coast of Martinique Called
Le Domaine Saint Aubin
By George & Ninette Medovoy
Contact George & Ninette at Tpostcard@aol.com
As we traveled recently up the northeast coast of Martinique, along the Atlantic Ocean, we discovered one of those places that leave a lasting impression.
It is called Le Domaine Saint Aubin, a magnificent Creole plantation house converted into a stunning boutique hotel in La Trinite. To make a long story short, we simply fell in love with it. But let's include some details, too...
Constructed in 1919, the house is ringed by a wide veranda of Italianate tiles, where drinks are served before dinner, unless, of course, you prefer a dip in the pool beforehand. New lodges have also been added with terraces facing the ocean or within gardens.
 (The swimming pool at Le Domaine Saint Aubin is within eyesight of the calm bay)
The study, sitting room-library, and elegant dining room all have Napoleon 3rd mahogany furnishings, but views of the bay are never far from the big open doors and windows.
 (The veranda of the boutique hotel is where drinks are served before dinner)
A large measure of the hotel's charm is due, we believe, to its hosts, Laurent and Joelle Rosemain, a Parisian couple. Laurent, a former jazz drummer, ran one of the largest drum and percussion schools in France and played in jazz trios and quartets there for 20 years.
 (The owners-hosts of Le Domaine Saint Aubin, from left, Joelle and Laurent Rosemain)
His wife was a miliner and costume designer for La Comedie Francaise, the prestigious French national theatre company.
But, said Laurent, they "planned for some years to leave Paris to find something we could do together."
So now the couple is living their dream through the plantation, adding their personal touch to everything, like Joelle's own crafted designs for the inn's drapes and chair coverings, and the opera names she has given to each of the 11 rooms of the plantation house -- with colors taken from opera posters.
Joelle also does double duty as chef, and though not formally trained, her kitchen skills have earned the inn's restaurant praise as one of Martinique's top five.
 (In the large, formal dining room, Joelle presents dishes that are simple yet elegant. She will also accommodate vegetarians, by the way)
Her dishes are simple yet elegant, with a nod to fresh ingredients, like the superb sea bass with lettuce salad a la roasted pepper mousse. The lettuce in the salad tasted like it had just been picked from the garden, and the chocolate soufflé with sorbet for dessert was heavenly, especially the syrupy chocolate!
The meal came with a Bordeaux and a Pinot Gris from Alsace.
Joelle offers different courses every day and alternates between fish and meat. She will also accommodate vegetarians.
In the mornings, Laurent sets out breakfast on the veranda: freshly-baked croissants with jellies, butter, coffee and juices -- plus his own musical touch, CD's of his favorite jazz artists like Paul Desmond and Chet Baker.
 (Breakfast is served out on the veranda, where you can also lounge on comfortable sofas and take in the sea breezes)
"It was very sophisticated and still very acoustical, soft and harmonically rich," he said of the music.
We loved sitting on the large, open veranda, taking in the pleasant views of the gardens and the bay and filling our mornings with Laurent's dreamy jazz.
One morning, we struck up a conversation with a visiting couple from Paris. We spoke French, but as soon as they knew we were Americans, they switched to English and told us how much they enjoy visiting the United States. What a lovely way to while away the morning!
 (Take your pick of jams to go with your warm croissants in the morning)
And what of Laurent's own jazz -- does he miss playing? "Of course," he said, "I miss playing a lot, but I have good hopes, when less busy, to play again some type of Caribbean jazz in a small combo format."
For now, though, he and his wife are busy introducing guests to "their" Martinique.
"Our guests are like us," he said. "They're interested in old books, jazz, in old rum, in authenticity.
"From this part of the island, you may discover the green part, rainforests and the old distilleries…I think it's a good opportunity for people to find rest and peace and discover real life."
|